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XelaWho by Issue

Happy Birthday To Us! XelaWho Turns 6

We turned six this year. Huzzah!

If you were expecting a celebration like last year, however, you’ll be sadly disappointed. In 2010, for our 5th anniversary we went all out and spent a bunch of money we didn’t have. You should have been there: we had a parade with 10 elephants, a music festival, and […]

Stuff: Some of the information you just can’t do without, plus a whole lot of filler

The Great Bar Migration

If you have wandered around Xela in the past month, then you may be wondering where your favorite bar has gone. It seems as if the nightlife in Xela is playing a game of musical chairs and everything is now in a new place. Here’s a quick round up of […]

Xela Has An Art Museum!

Regular readers of this ongoing museums series (likely only my wife), will recall last month’s failed visit to the Railway Museum and the corresponding bet about whether it would be open in time for a review in this edition. Since the bet was a copy of the XelaWho magazine you’re now holding (unless you’re part […]

The Public Laundromats

By: Diana Pastor

In Guatemala there are a number of traditions that have not changed in this modern and globalized era. One such tradition has been the way that folks wash clothes. If you go into most any home—even one that has a washing machine—you will still see a pila. (Sink/tub for washing)


Why Is This Popular?

By: Steve Mullaney


Picamas is the uniformly green, unquestionably synthetic hot sauce that can be found in every restaurant everywhere. Nobody knows what, exactly, is in Picamas, but everyone seems to put it on foods ranging from eggs to hot dogs* to soup. This provokes the question: with so many more delicious homemade hot […]

Superchivos Kick Off The Season

By: Jed Herrmann

For fans of all things goat-related (and there are plenty in Xela), it’s the season to leave the pastures (or more likely the bar) and head straight to Estadio Mario Camposeco for some futbol (or soccer, to you Americanos). Located just outside Democracia Market along 14 Avenida in Zone 3 (and a […]

La Sastreria’s Coffee and Cakes Shine

By: Elena Alvarado

There are a number of coffee drinks that are almost impossible to screw up. If you order a cappuccino, for instance, you will undoubtedly find it served the same way here in Xela whether you are getting it at McDonald’s or something a little more upscale. To prepare a good macchiato, on […]

On Witchcraft

By: Susana Raymundo

Witchcraft, spells, enchantments and magic have always been talked about here in Guatemala. In many communities, scientific medicine did not exist as it does today—so when folks got sick, injured and so forth spells and witchcraft were turned to both as cures as well as ways to explain and understand the world. […]

Dear Truck That Hit Me…

I suppose that it was inevitable. At some point given my misaligned brakes, reckless attitude, and Xela’s famously unobservant drivers I knew that I would be hit by a car. As it turns out, I am very, very lucky. Not only did I make it out alive (yay!) but all I ended up with were […]

The XelaWho Guide To Getting Sick

Chances are that if you have been in Xela for longer than two weeks you have probably gotten some sort of illness. With any luck, it is something relatively simple to take care of—but since publishing this magazine we’ve run across stories of motorcycle accidents, brain parasites, and every single intestinal parasite possible. So, in […]